New Year- Wolof- Disparities

Wednesday was the Islamic New Year’s Eve. Each household makes couscous… but not like any couscous I’ve ever had. They use mill instead of flour. Mady and his wife had about 10 people over. Very festive… once everyone cleans out the large platters of couscous covered in mountains of braised mouton and veggies, the children run around the neighborhood clanging the large dishes. La fete!! They were out until near midnight, even really little guys dancing around, making music with whacks of serving spoons.

I’ve been quite occupied the last two days with my Wolof classes (3-day intensive course) and meeting the many volunteers and partners coming through La Case. One just finished her 2 year mission and is departing, an other is celebrating a birthday so a group of us went out to celebrate. We had super fresh seafood right on the ocean… refreshing salty breeze, soothing waves. It felt a bit weird because all the folk in the restaurant were toubab. I love being immersed in Senegalese culture… there is so much to learn from them. Going out with groups of Europeans in a way taints this experience. However, it has been extremely interesting to talk with the volunteers, hear their stories of integration and about their work with l'AFVP.

A typical dinner with French folk... lots of alcohol and chain smoking... ending with a loud off-key choral of a cheesy French pop song.

My privileged life-style also bothers me. To think, before arriving I was worried that the conditions might be tougher than I could handle. But alas, I have the huge bedroom with a balcony, a big kitchen, maids that pass everyday to keep things absolutely spotless. (They even wash the dishes volunteers carelessly leave behind.) Every morning a fresh baguette and coffee await me. Mady’s wife will wash, iron and fold clothes for cheap. Delicious food is sold at bargain prices everywhere. The volunteers all use the same tailor who makes outfits based on a picture or description with the textiles they purchase at the market. Each garment costs only a few dollars to make. The toubab life-style is so flagrantly disproportional to that of the average Senegalese. It is disconcerting.