First impressions of Senegal

My second day in Senegal. Wow. What an experience. The change happened as quickly as I transferred flights in Milan towards Senegal. As soon as we were in the air, the ambiance became that of a pre-party… folks hanging out in the aisles, drinking and talking convivially. I was seated between 2 impeccably dressed young Senegalese men, both doing business in Italy. Dress is very important to most African cultures because it signifies status. I felt it a little overboard though… c’mon leather suits in the tropics? Even on the plane, they were hurtin’!

I arrived at 3am. An AFVP colleague picked me up and we rode across the bumpy dirt roads towards La Case. I really had NO CLUE what to expect so I was pleasantly surprised to find hot water, clean rooms, nice kitchen, courtyard… There is a full-time guardian, Mady who lives in a little studio next door with his wife and child. In the morning they gave me my first lesson in Wolof. Incredibly friendly… nothing like I’ve ever experienced.

Mady

Around lunch time I was invited to eat with them. Everyone takes off their shoes, sits on a mat around a large platter. (Utensils are apparently optional.) Maybe since I’m a toubab (whitey), we were given big spoons to scoop up piles of steamed rice smothered in palm oil, smashed okra, spices, mouton and potato. Very little meat. Most families live on small revenues. Though, this does not stop them from feeding 2 friends that pass by. Food here is to be shared.

Mady's wife Fatou and son Mor

Before heading off to check out the office, (a convenient 2 minute walk from La Case) I set up my stuff in one of the 4 rooms upstairs. I chose the one with the big french doors to get in maximal light. If I’m lucky we’ll find the key so that I can also enjoy the huge balcony. It’s pretty humorous. Every single room in the house, including the kitchen and dining room has a lock and key. Not to mention, there are lockers in the hallway and locks on every single closet and cabinet. Not too sure why this is necessary since the neighborhood is safe, the locks on the front door are good and La Case is closed in by a high white wall. Anyway, I’m very comfortable and am looking forward to decorate the place. Before checking out my new work place I sat and had some tea with Mady and a few of his friends. Though, I didn’t make it through the 3 servings. First is a strong bitter tea, symbolic of death, the second less pungent symbolic of life, the third super sweet symbolic of love. Each brew takes a long time. Two small cups are used to mix the tea by pouring one in to the other from up high. I only got through the first before I had to go. Tastes like dirt, mmmmmmmm.

Friends stop by for tea and talk about the BIG of the big soccer: Senegal vs Guinea, which they won 3 to 2. The ENTIRE city cheered when they made a goal. The intensity in sound was impressive.

Everyone at the office seems nice. Again, extremely approachable, easy grins. Since I got arrived so late in the day, I didn’t spend much time there. Though, it was long enough to get an invitation to share dinner with a colleague and his wife. Once again, same scenario except this time there were 10 people around one platter, I being the only toubab. After a quick rinse in a bowl of water, everyone dug in with their hands. A little strange, yes, but since I’ve ALWAYS been a messy eater it was almost liberating. And the food was quite delicious. I really want to know all the spices she used to jerk the chicken. Yum.

This morning the other volunteers from the AFVP came to the office to welcome me over coffee and pain au chocolat. It was nice to hear about their work and experiences. One volunteer invited me to have lunch at her place… steps away from the ocean.

Hot sun, cool breeze, beautiful view

I can't wait to spend the day lounging by the water. Though I remain a bit nervous, my SUPER pale skin is bound to attract a lot of attention.

SO JEALOUS! Once again, fed to my delight. She and I shared good conversation. It takes a little work to psychological adapt to such a change in environment. She, having arrived 6 months ago was fresh enough to understand exactly what I was experiencing but also been here long enough to have good bit of helpful advice. I feel like a child. I must relearn everything. Nothing is “evident”. Luckily, the folks here are so, so friendly that it is no problem. But one thing is for sure, for a gal who has always been confident (at times to my own detriment) this really shakes things up. When going to the store to buy water alone seems daunting, one quickly feels fragile! But, Alexandra assures me I’ll get through it. Just need a little time to get used to things.

Right now, I’m at La Case. I decided to be tough and go to a little “suprette” and buy what I need for dinner tonight and breakfast tomorrow. Whew, Western products aren’t cheap. I’ve got to learn how to cook Senegalese food!

We live right next to a mosque. Mosques are everywhere. Man, is the call to prayer LOUD. They have huge speakers that echo on all the concrete buildings and walls and they repeat the same two phrases over and over for lets see… how long has it been now? Too long. Whew, they stopped. Now comes the sermon.

There was lots of photos I wanted to take today to share with all, but I’m still too timid to pull out the ol’ camera. Already, I attract too much attention for my comfort level. Plus, folks here are extremely superstitious. Some believe bad things will come upon them if they are captured in a picture.

That’s all for now. I’m going to go back out and see if I can post this at a cyber café.