St. Louis

Part One of a week long journey through Senegal

I went on a week trip with the National Delegate, the person in charge of all the AFVP activity in Senegal, and another colleague who does followup/support for half the volunteers in the country. It was a good deal for me because I was able to ride in a super nice vehicle up to St. Louis rather than take public transportation. I avoided paying for a crammed spot in a rickety ol’ van that usually takes double the trip time (from 4 to 8 hours).

On the road, stoked not to be in the van.

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I was also glad that I’d have the opportunity for exchange... compare what my western education has taught me about international development with the thoughts of a Malian and a Senegalese who work in the field.

Karim, Nat. Delegate

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One of the volunteers, Céline, also made the trek up with us. Our first stop was St. Louis, where we would join the 20 odd volunteers getting together for a tri-annual reunion. Each meeting, they choose a different location. The volunteers stationed in the host town come up with 3-4 days of activities for the whole gang. St. Louis is a small island in the North of Senegal. It is one of the old “colonial” establishments, which is evident by the bright yellow and pinks of Nice/Marseille style villas, cozy restaurants and bars. It has a warm, relaxed feel… much more agréable than chaotic, polluted Dakar.

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View of the mainland from St.Louis

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Nothin' but blue skies.

A river runs through the island... fishing boats line both banks.

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Celine tells me, "Lili, sit on your left hand!"

Céline arrived in Senegal one week earlier than me. She and I enjoyed sharing our experiences on the way up. She managed to pick up on some details that, unfortunately, I had not. Though, this was not her first time in Africa. For example, I could not understand why in all the bathrooms you always find a big bucket full of water and a cup floating in it. I figured it was related to plumbing problems. I wondered if you were supposed to add water to the ceramic tank if you noticed it was low. Well, she explained that Senegalese do not use toilet paper… which, finally accounts for the total lack in bathrooms here. It also explains why there is always water everywhere ! Apparently, the ritual is to clean yourself up with water (and soap, though there is rarely ever any) using your left hand. That is why the left hand is regarded as “impure”. Then she rattles off, “you know, that is why you never eat with your left hand when eating the communal platter...” I cringe, hard. She continues, “if someone touched the food with their left hand everyone would stop eating!”. ackk! I didn’t know! I didn’t know! Thankfully, my Senegalese hosts apparently were able to forgive my ill-mannered toubab ways.

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You can go about making your purchases with much less hassle in St. Louis

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She also told me about a little secret your average visitor would never find out. Senegal, a country anchored in Muslim cultural codes, requires women to be very discrete about their sexuality. Revealing clothes are rare. And, you will never see a women displaying public affection to her sweetheart. Never. However, since polygamy is widely accepted, women have to work harder for their man’s attention and to keep them around in general! You’ll notice women burning pastes of exotic aromas to lure the man inside the home. Another means of seduction is the binbee, a string of beads of various textures and colors, worn around the waste. Indiscernible to the eye, but as the saying goes “nothing excites a man like the cry of pearls”. A man hears the beads brush against one another in her natural movement… a subtle yet very effective reminder of her sexuality. Très charming.

I am happy to have Celine, a "cool chick" with whom I can discover Dakar.

The comittee meeting started with a talk by a guest professor who explained to us the potential of using the nearby river water to sustain local agriculture.

Little boy curiously stares in to get a view of a full herd of toubabs chillin' outside. Not long after, he was joined by 7 others.

All in all the reunion was a success. It gave the volunteers a chance to meet the newcomers and discuss a bit their projects.

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And, a moment to get away from the workload for a few days of fun in the HOT sun.