Tour of the Saturday Market

RUE DE LEVIS

Welcome to the Saturday market in Paris’ 17th arrondissement. I became attached to this bustling, pedestrian street full of specialty shops and gourmet foods when I studied here in 2002. I love this typical french district; shopowners who know most of their customers by name, young families getting their errands done together, produce men selling fruits and veggies like in an auction. "2 Euros les fraises, messieurs dames, regarder, les jolies fraises, 2 Euros!"

Flowers galore.

If I could, I'd fill my apartment to the brim with pots and vases. However, I am happily making do with a window sill of herbs and a few small plant throughout the apt.

Stinky cheese.

The cheese selection is overwhelming. I have been going chevre crazy as of late. It is just too delicious with the last of the season's heirloom tomatoes, arugula and a warm bacon vinagrette.

MARCHEE BIOLOGIQUE

The neighborhood is also home to a fabulous organic market. Though you pay an arm and a leg for their products, the difference in taste makes it hard to resist. I have gone there every Saturday since my arrival to purchase veggies and fruits for the week. Slowly but surely, I'm starting to get French market culture. As with everything else here, the act of purchasing from a stand is chuck full of cultural codes. If you don't understand the rules, you either wait a long time or get snipped at. The first two weeks I was pathetic. Completely lacking confidence, I would sheepishly wait until someone offered me assistance. I felt so silly preciously holding a single tomato for twenty minutes, hoping someone would eventually notice me and take my money. Luckily now a days, I know how to get in to the system, though not without a few bumps along the way.

Les Reines du Marchee

So, I've learned, the most important skill in the market is to know how to "faire la queue" or wait in line. In the beginning, I didn't think there was such a thing. I thought it must be a free for all. Apparently, nothing could be farther from the truth. And to make things even more complicated, for each seller, there's a specific place you are supposed to stand. With large crowds seeming to aimlessly roam around, it can be dizzying to figure out who is waiting to be helped, who is just looking, and behind whom to stand.

And then, one must be prepared for the Wild card. Old Ladies. They will not wait. They are allowed to break all market rules! One day, this mean little ol' lady, pushes me to the side and shoves a euro in to the merchant's hands, takes her bouquet of herbs and walks away with her nose high in the air. Meanwhile, I had been standing there for 15 minutes with no more than she in my hands.

Another time, I walked up to a stand with no one waiting, just one other person being helped. I made eye contact with the merchant. I just needed a couple squash. After the other customer finished his transaction I thought surely it was my turn. As I extend my money towards him, a woman who walked up after me and stood to me right starts fussing, "excuse me, but you are not in line, what are you thinking, why should you be served first?" Confused, I asked the merchant, "well, I was clearly here first, where does the line begin?" Well madame, to the right of the stand. But, since you have so little, I'll let you go ahead". Let me go ahead??? Just because I was four steps away from the spot. Unbelievable.